This pretty table topper was made with four log cabin blocks surrounded by two borders. It features deep brown, beige and cream colored fabrics. The center of each block and the outer border were made from the same neutral-tone floral cotton fabric. The center of the topper features a beige and cream calico print of leaves on vines. It would be pretty in a living room or dining room where neutral tones and wood are the main decorating themes.
The backing is a solid cream cotton fabric. This large topper measures 35-3/4 inches square! It was machine stitched for stability and reinforcement for longevity through continued use and laundering. As with all my table mats, it may be machine washed in cool water, gentle cycle, mild detergent. Air or machine dry on low heat.
I’m on a roll with square patchwork table toppers! I’m on a quest to fill out the inventory to replace some that have sold in recent months.
One of my latest creations is featured here. It’s made with high quality quilting cotton fabric featuring deep green and gold leaf and acorn prints. It was made with four log cabin blocks surrounded by a thin border of caramel colored fabric. The outer border matches the centerpieces of the log cabin blocks. It’s a coordinating leaf print with gold, deep green and beige leaves on a black border. The backing is a coordinating solid butterscotch cotton fabric. It measures 31 inches square. This eye-catching topper would be a beautiful focal piece on a dining room table, coffee table or buffet, especially if your accent colors are green and gold.
As with all my table mats, it was machine stitched (who hand-stitches any more???), with decorative stitching reinforcing all seams for stability and longevity for continued use and laundering. It may be machine washed in cool water, gentle cycle, mild detergent. Air or machine dry on low heat. It may be steam pressed, if desired.
I found some absolutely beautiful quilting fabric recently. Making Thanksgiving table runners was a must with such pretty stash in hand. I’ve made the following two runners out of it so far. As always each item I make is unique. No two are identical, which makes each one special in its own way.
This one was made in a patchwork style featuring blocks of the harvest theme fabric in the center and the border. It measures 13-1/4 inches x 39-5/8 inches long. It is backed with a coordinating fabric so it’s reversible. This would add an elegant theme to anyone’s table for Thanksgiving!
It is machine stitched with decorative stitching reinforcing all seams. This ensures it will stand up to regular use without issue. As always, it’s machine washable on the gentle cycle with cool water. Air or machine dry on low heat. May be steam pressed. It’s available on Amazon.com.
The second Thanksgiving table runner I made with these same fabrics shows more of the harvest produce fabric. It’s really elegant! It is 12-1/4 inches x 45-1/4 inches long.
This view shows the backing, which is in a coordinating fabric.
As with the other runner, the piece was machine stitched with decorative stitching reinforcing all seams. I make my runners to be USED, not just looked at! All are machine washable (cool water, gentle cycle) and can be air or machine dried on low heat. Steam pressing is fine if desired. Available on Amazon.com.
There seems to be some debate out there as to whether to preshrink fabric before using it in a quilted project. I for one will always treat my fabric first before working with it. Here’s why I do it and how I do it.
First, before working with the fabric at all, I preshrink it. I do this for TWO reasons. Here’s the “WHY.”
(1) It will tell me if the fabric is colorfast. The LAST thing I’d want is to complete a project only to learn that one fabric bleeds. My customers or gift recipients would not be happy with what I made if it ended up as one dull color after being washed. No one wants that. Subjecting the fabric to hot water first will tell me if it will bleed. If it does, I treat it to stop the bleeding before going any further with it. THAT’S the subject for another blog post!
(2) Different fabrics will shrink at different rates. If untreated fabrics are used in a quilt project, you may end up with something quite skewed after it’s washed and dried. Again, my customers or gift recipients would not be happy and so neither would I!
Even if you like the crinkle look that aged projects have, it’s still necessary to preshrink the fabrics before working with them. That being done, simply use cotton batting that has NOT been preshrunk. Then you know that your finished project will have an evenly crinkled look after it’s laundered. You will have treated any bleeding fabrics and your project will look very nice for a long time to come.
Now…That’s the “why.” So, what’s an easy way to preshrink fabric? Here’s what I do…
Plug the kitchen sink, then fill it with hot tap water. Place one fabric at a time in the hot water and make sure it’s totally soaked. Leave it there briefly (a minute is enough time). I then squeeze out what water I can and wrap it in a clean dry towel to remove what excess water I can. Then I place the fabric (not the towel) in the dryer on high heat until it’s dry. This usually doesn’t take long. I suggest you don’t overload the dryer. This will allow the fabric to dry quickly plus it will minimize fraying of the raw edges.
After the fabric has been dried, I like to iron it with a steam iron to be sure it’s totally dry, shrunk, and smooth. That also makes it easier and more accurate to cut. Done! The whole process is really simple and fast. It’s well worth the effort to avoid unpleasant surprises with your finished project!
I’ve been enjoying making table mats of all sizes (from long runners to mini mug rugs), including hot pads and pot holders. When I first got started, the big issue was how to sew on the binding. I researched and found most people did all their assembling and quilting on a sewing machine, while finishing their binding by hand. I’m not sure why this trend took hold. It seems odd to me to do everything on the machine while reserving the final touch to hand sewing. I suppose people think that makes their quilt extra special. For me, it’s either all hand sewing or none. After doing one entire quilt by hand, I now opt for no hand sewing (time just won’t allow otherwise!).
So I came up with my own way to secure quilt binding. Since I do all the other work on the sewing machine, I saw no reason not to finish the binding likewise. I add decorative stitches (with the sewing machine) that give the binding a special touch. I’ve sold plenty of them in recent times and literally NO CUSTOMER complained about my not hand sewing the binding. Truly, I don’t think they care! They’re more interested in how the front/top looks…if it’s neat and clean, if the colors will go well with their decor, if it’s the right size for where it’s needed, etc. NOT ONE CUSTOMER has refused to purchase a mat because I didn’t hand sew the binding! So…why bother???
Here’s how I do it…see the steps detailed below. This technique is designed for projects with squared corners. If all that reading isn’t for you, skip to the bottom and view the video I recorded so you can see how it’s done.
Square Up Your Project
Quilt then trim your project. Of course, all the quilting must be done first before thinking of binding your project! Once all the quilting is finished, use a square block board and trim off all extra fabric, batting and backing, squaring your project and making sure all edges are straight.
Cut your binding. For this technique, I cut binding in 2″ strips. If the strips aren’t long enough for any one side, it can be pieced together. Press seam open.
Finish Long Edges First
Finish long edges first. Place the binding fabric face down against the top of the project (right sides together). Using a straight stitch, sew the binding to the front of the project, long edges first. I use a 3/8″ seam allowance. (This is easy as I use the edge of my walking presser foot as my guide line.) Trim your binding to be flush with the edges of your project.
Next, press the binding against the project (right sides together). This step is simply to remove any wrinkles in the binding and to “crisp” up the seam. Then, flip the binding upward and press it, so that you’re pressing the right sides of both the binding and the project.
Press Folded Binding Upward
Now, flip the project over so the backing is facing upward. Fold the binding upward, so that there is about 1/8″ gap between the raw edge of the binding and the raw edge of the project. Press this fold.
Now fold the binding up over the raw edge of the project, covering the seam stitches. Make the fold firm, so there is no gap between the binding and the project edge. Press the binding in place.
While holding the binding in place, flip the project so the top side is up. Pin the binding into place ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE PROJECT.
Change your bobbin thread to a color that will match your binding color. For contrast, use a thread color on the TOP that will nicely contrast with some of your fabric in your project (usually a color you’ve been using for the quilting). I usually have light fabric against a dark, coordinating fabric. I choose whatever thread I want to have the decorative stitching show up on the opposite fabric (dark thread shows up on the light fabric, light thread shows up on the dark fabric).
Align your project in your machine so when the needle is in the center, it’s aiming directly at the seam where the binding meets the main fabric. Using a decorative stitch on your sewing machine (or even a zigzag stitch will do), stitch the entire length of the binding, removing pins as you sew. Do this for both long sides. If this was done correctly, you should see very little of your stitches on the back of the project. The front stitches will look decoratively nice and enhance the character of the project. Trim the ends of each binding piece to be flush with the short sides of the project.
Finish Short Ends of Project
Finish the short sides of the project. Place binding fabric right sides together with the top of the project. Allow about 1-1/2 inches of fabric to overlap each end. Fold under to the back of the project the excess binding at the end where you will start sewing. Hold this in place as you sew down the seam. Stop sewing about 4 inches from the end of the project. Fold under about 1-1/2 inches of binding at the end of the project so that it snugs up against the project. Hold this in place (or pin it) as you finish sewing the seam.
Return to the ironing board. Flip the binding upward and press it flat. Now turn the project over so the backing is facing upward. Press the folded pieces of binding slightly inward so there is a slight angle inward along the edge. Fold and press the binding as was done earlier on the long sides.
Pin Binding on the Top
Flip the project over and pin the binding in place as before, ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE PROJECT. Align your project in the sewing machine so when the needle is in the center position, it will be aiming directly at the seam where the binding meets the fabric. Sew all the way across the binding, securing stitches at both ends.
DONE! I realize all this reading makes it seem complicated. But, it’s really not. Watch the video to get the idea of what I do. You’ll be glad you did! Judi
Somehow I feel connected to anything I create…even table runners! If I needed to name this one, I’d call it “Peaches and Cream” because of the pretty colors. It’s made from cotton fabrics featuring peach, green and cream colors. It is 47-3/4” long x 11-3/4” wide and would look really lovely in any room where peach and green are the accent colors. To adopt this table runner, visit my web page where it’s listed at http://HandMadeInIowa.com/over_40_long.html. You will see it there, if it has not already been sold.
This blog is open to all, so please feel free to comment below! Judi
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